rant repost

People seem to get really carried away with (or perhaps obsessed with) the most unusual tiny aspects of producing espresso. These can range from control of brew temp of the machine (important, but do you really think that the problem with the shots you're pulling is that you don't have a PID on your machine?) to arcane and complicated tamping techniques to bizarre cleaning rituals and beyond.

The reality is that there are more than 100 variables going into a single espresso. As a result, it's all a dance. Or, perhaps more accurately, it's one of those plate-spinning acts while dancing with a partner. Hmm... yeah, pretty complex.

Anyway... we try to be consistent in controlling as many variables as is humanly possible. But there is always variance and there is always going to be variance. So... I think the key is to pay attention to the most critical variables, and then understand the relationships between all of the variables and how they affect the results. Understanding this allows you to then pay attention to the results in light of all of this (the key variables and the inter-relationships between all the variables and their outcomes).

So what are the key variables? Well, there are some that can be reduced to constants (like brew temp and brew pressure and the coffee and the consistency of grind). So let's assume you're working with acceptable equipment and high-quality, fresh coffee. Given this... what are the key variables for a barista to focus on?

1 - Grind. Grind is the one variable that should remain a variable. The goal in general is to try to be so consistent and controlled at a tiny detail level that all other variables approach being constant. Now... of course... this is very Zen. I mean, it's basically impossible (and thus the idea of understanding the relationships between all the variables). In any event, grind is the variable you use. By this I mean that you tune the extraction of your espresso by adjusting the grind. Learning how changes in grind affect things, striving to understand the complexities of the grind is 90% of being a barista.

2 - Distribution. Distribution is the most misunderstood, neglected and really critical variable within your control. For good espresso, a requirement and the goal is to create an even density of coffee within the basket. This is actually a non-trivial problem. For most baristas (professional or passionate enthusiast) this is where technique fails most noticably. There are a couple of options when it comes to methodologies for distributing coffee within the basket. The two that seem most easy to grasp, most predictable and most reliable are the Schomer Method and the Stockfleths Move. The best thing to do is figure out which one works for you, practice it, and get good at it. Keep in mind all the time what the goal is... to create an even bed (an even density of coffee within the basket). If you get this right, then your odds of correct extraction are going to go way way up.

3 - Dosing. For each coffee, there is a range for your dosage that works with a set combination of grind, distribution, tamp and extraction style. You simply have to say within that window. For target tolerance, 0.1grams is desirable but probably excessive, but 0.5grams is really the maximum variance that will work. It's worthwhile to actually practice your dosing with an eye towards this tolarance. A good thing to try is to grind, dose and distribute your coffee (in a clean and totally dry portafilter) and then dump it into a clean, dry paper cup. Repeat 9 times. Now weigh each one. Practice until your tolerance gets to a personal target (I'd suggest 0.3gram).

To be honest, everything else is less important when it comes to a constant evaluation. Tamp (for example) is not nearly as important as everyone seems to think. The goal with your tamping is to preserve the distribution and to create a firm enough surface. You need to be consistent with your tamp, but then again you need to be consistent with everything you do.

Preservation of distribution is an important thing to keep in mind. There is no point in creating a near-even distribution only to then destroy it. How can you destroy good distribution? The most common ways are: wacking the hell out of the portafilter (we've all seen baristas who seem to be performing some percussion piece using the tamper on the portafilter); tamping off-level; rattling the portafilter side to side in the grinder fork; tamping multiple times with a too-small tamper; etc.

Anyway... back to tamping. Basically, if you preserve the distribution, tamp at least 30lbs of pressure, tamp with consistent pressur eand don't mangle the coffee by polishing under pressure, tilting the surface, etc. it's all good.

So.. other "obsessed upon" variables? Well... time and volume are then going to be tools to help you get close to the right grind. When you get close - you start tasting while tweaking the grind to get yourself to the point where the grind is right. At that point, however, throw away the tools!! This is an art as well as a science and is meant to be tasted as a method of evaluation. So instead of watching the stopwatch, watch the flow of espresso. Even when you're being as consistent as you can possibly be, there will be variances (not just in your technique but in other factors). So you watch the flow, you manage volume and time based on that flow. And taste, taste and taste some more. Because at the end of the day... it's the taste of what's in the cup (not the size, not the time, not the look, blah blah blah) that matters.

Drink the coffee - love the taste.

our own worst enemies?

we've all been seeing the slow creation and growth of a true professional coffee community here in North America. we've all been witnessing the tentative contacts we've begun with European and other world communities like ours.
it's been incredibly cool and heartening to see all this happen.
i love going to some event (house party, barista jam, coffee cupping, trade show, whatever) and seeing the developing connections, relationships and friendships.
it all gives me hope.

so it's particularly painful when i witness behavior counter to this positive development. it's hard to see old, paranoid and competitive mindsets in action. it's unpleasant to witness petty back-biting and whisper campaigns and slander.

i honestly believe that, if the quality-focused coffee businesses want to not only get ahead but survive in this market, we need to co-operate. if one of us wins we all win. really. i mean, good-natured competition like you see at some barista jams or in CoE auctions or the like is one thing. but once it breaks down into cliquishness and nastiness and rumour-mongering and trying to actually do damage to eachother and our businesses it's just no good. i mean, we're facing an uphill battle against ignorance and miseducation and enormous, well funded, branding and marketing machines of companies.

we need to pull together if we want to push this forward.
seriously.


on a personal note... i just got back from the doctor and it was mostly good news but there was some bad news.

i've now got a stylish black cast (good news) but it's not a load-bearing cast (bad news). i'm not going to be able to put any weight on the foot for at least the next month (bad news). the break didn't get any worse since last week, looks just the same in fact (good news). they still feel that surgery is not the best option (good news). i do, unfortunately, have some ligament damage as well (bad news). the conclusion is that this doesn't require surgery either (good news). as a result of the ligament damage, the hope is that they'll be able to take the cast off in 4 weeks and put me in an orthopedic boot so that I can start physical therapy (good news). this, however, depends on how the bones heal in the next 4 weeks. if it's not healed enough, they'll put another cast back on for 2-4 weeks (bad news).

i'm actually feeling kind of positive about the whole thing right now.

BGA Elections

i just got my ballot for the BGA elections. these are the first elections for the BGA ever. we'll be electing regional reps as well as board members. i'm really hoping that the BGA can become a real force in the industry and the community.

i knew that i was going to be a candidate for the Northwest regional rep. i feel a bit weird about it. i mean, not only did i just move to this region - this is probably the strongest region (when it comes to baristas and the coffee industry) in the US. there are so many people who could be great reps from this region. i mean, i'm confident that i can do a good job - and i'm flattered and honored - but i feel a bit unworthy compared to some of the luminaries and superstars in the PNW. when it comes right down to it, there are better baristas than me right here at Stumptown and there are people here who humble me with their coffee and espresso knowledge on a daily basis.

what i did not know was that i was going to be listed as a candidate on the board slate. i'm rather shocked actually. i mean - at a certain level i think i'd probably be better suited to a board seat than to being the PNW regional rep (given the strengths of this region) but it's still a total surprise. i guess i should be really honored - and i am. it's not really sunk in yet, to be honest. but... whoever nominated me -- thanks. i cannot see myself getting elected given some of the big name barista stars on the ballot, but you never know. and given that i complain a lot - this would give me a chance to try and make some of the changes i'd like to see.


i've been kept really busy by Duane and Jodi working on various things that i can while sitting down or lying down or at least not moving around much. it's making everything a lot better. i'm really grateful to them. i think i'd be going totally insane right now if i had nothing to do.

i really want to take the opportunity (now that i'm somewhat immobile) of learning more about coffee. as soon as my leg is in a cast i want to spend some more time learning about roasting if i can, and reading the new edition of the Illy book, and learning how to use a manual lever machine.... yeah, right. i'm sure the list of stuff Duane and Jodi have for me is mighty long. but if i have free time, i'm going to try and squeeze some self-improvement in there.
it's either that or follow Mike Squires' advice and start cruising up and down Mt Tabor in a racing wheelchair.

i'm in far less pain -- in fact, i've cut back to only one or two prescription painkillers per day as of yesterday.

this has resulted in my being able to get up off the sofa at last.
and that has resulted in my being able to get out to the coffee bars again. very nice indeed.

after a couple of days without espresso i've had a couple really good macchiattos in the last two days. yesterday's (at Belmont) had lovely dark malted chocolate notes and a very heavy mouthfeel. today's (Downtown) was softer, with fantastic sweetness and a milk chocolate caramel finish.
in a sense, it was really good to get away from the cafes for a couple days. i don't know how or why, but i'd lost the ability to just experience the cup and instead was dissecting and evaluating it for flaws all the time. i'd lost the ability to enjoy the espresso.
those couple drinks were so enjoyable it is crazy.
it makes me really really proud to be a part of Stumptown when i get drinks like that.

at a certain level i feel like a lot of people who are serious and passionate about coffee have lost sight of the simple, visceral enjoyment of the drink. we're like cabinetmakers at a furniture museum -- looking at the joinery work on the back of the Stickley armoire instead of just enjoying the beauty of the object.

the classic good news/bad news

well...

i had a great shift yesterday. super good crew, handled a bad customer with ease and professionalism, turned out great drinks with style and aplomb... very fun indeed. then cupped a bunch of really amazing coffees (the Cup of Excellence Bolivia is so cool). then capped it off by spending some time at the climbing gym with two good friends who are visiting Portland and who we haven't seen for a long time.

but...

while at the gym i fell awkwardly and it turns out i've broken my leg rather badly. i'll know more on Monday when i see the orthopedic surgeon.

sigh...

i'm trying to keep my spirits up.

the social lives of baristas

it's been an amusing and enjoyable and fun weekend.

first - Friday evening (as is becoming more and more common) folks gathered at the downtown cafe. belgian beers, David Griswold's photos from Ethiopia, visitors from Zoka, Stumptown roasters, baristas, managers... tons of fun or too much fun?

second - Kyle and Stephen's housewarming party on Saturday. super fun! a keg of Celebration ale (thanks Duane), snacks and blender drinks, folks from every coffee bar of note in Portland and others down from Seattle, the crew from Barista Magazine. sadly Duane is on an origin trip in Colombia, but otherwise it was a full house.

it makes you wonder... is Portland becoming the new hot spot for US coffee?

long days

just wrapped up a couple long days. tiring - but rewarding as well.
worked a shift downtown and a shift at division. still lovin' it.
learned a new word (sweetical). tasted a new drink (layered melted chocolate, espresso and cold heavy cream). pulled some shots, steamed some milk.
good times.
the baristas here are so damn cool it's scary.
been helping out with prep for the USBC. learning a lot.
planning for the future.... big things are afoot. coolness.

the weather here has been great. amazing even.
and i'm starting to feel nearly healthy again.

our Rwanda Karaba is cupping in a truly godlike fashion right now. so incredibly tasty.