espresso - bastard stepchild of US coffee?

A quick message to the folks working at and running the high end, quality focused craft coffee companies in the US.

I know that a lot of you think espresso is "over".

I know that the cool new thing is the V60. Or is it the Aeropress? Wait... syphon? Well... let's just say that brewed coffee is the new hotness for you all.

I get it.

But here is the thing...

Your customers still drink espresso.

Some of us (shocking I know) actually prefer espresso to brewed coffee.

So the fact that some of you are either ignoring your espresso or half-assing your espresso pretty much sucks.

It's unprofessional and it is disrespectful of your customers.

We want good espresso.

Espresso in the US has, in my opinion, declined in quality over the last 2 years. There are exceptions, of course, but in general I can conclusively say that the espresso I've tasted over the last 6 months (from many of the "best" roasters in the United States) is worse than it was 2 years ago.

Don't be lazy.

Don't be selfish.

Make good espresso.

first photos

first day with the GS

So this morning was my first day with the incredible Espressoparts La Marzocco GS.

After the epic with the electrician, Kyle from Ritual was kind enough to assist with an install last night -- which turned out to be a good thing given some complications in programming the controller.

So this morning I (finally) had a chance to make espresso with the machine. I will write up more complete thoughts next week after I live with the machine a bit more - and have some photos to share - but I thought I'd share initial impressions now.

First -- I truly do have the dream home setup. It's insane and unbelievable and I have to periodically shake my head. My luck... it's ridiculous. I'm undeserving. Truly.

Second -- I'm having to remember how to make espresso on a commercial machine. For all of this being a smaller one-group machine, it's still a true commercial piece of equipment.

Third -- I had one of the best shots of Stumptown Hairbender I've had in a very long time. Incredible coating and viscous mouthfeel, lovely cherry chocolate stonefruit flavours. Stunning finish and aftertaste.

Fourth -- there are some things that the Italians do very well - and this machine demonstrates that. Producing very high quality espresso is dramatically easier than it was with the Monster Mia (which was one of the easier machines to work on already).

Fifth -- there are some things that Italians are mystifyingly bad at. Why the hot water spout is out to the side of the machine (where it doesn't drain into the drip tray) is truly bizarre. And steaming milk with this wand is both challenging and exciting.

Sixth -- goddamn do Terry Z and his Espressoparts crew do a good job. While this GS is an "authentic" piece of gear, it's so cleverly updated and restored that it keeps all this was good and wonderful while modernizing what needs to be improved -- and does so in a manner that is cool, functional and gorgeous all at once.

I think I'm in love.

Oh... It's ON

Stumptown opens shop in Chicago.

That's right folks... the pride of Portland is going straight into Intelligentsia's backyard.

Who wins?

We do.

That's right... you know that this means Intelli is going to step it up. Their coffee will get better, their green will get better, their roasting will get better... And you have to know that Stumptown is going to be bringing their A game.

I'm so incredibly envious. The coffee lovers in Chicago are going to have it so good! Damn.

Things to ponder:

1. Will Intelli Chicago be able to keep their best employees?
2. Will Stumptown's indy punk rock vibe sell in the midwest?
3. Will Intelli open in Portland?
4. Will Stumptown go for a beer and wine license?
5. Will Intelli try to better leverage Ecco now?
6. Will Stumptown be Stumptown without bike messengers?
7. Who will Alinea use?

Break out the popcorn.

This is going to be fucking EPIC!!!

it arrives

I am the luckiest person in the world.

For many reasons.

Today just brought me another reason.

One of the greatest people in the coffee business (Terry Z of Espressoparts) - who also built out the Monster Mia I've been using for the past few years - is world renowned for his work with vintage espresso machines. I've admired these gorgeous restorations and rebuilds for years now.

And now I have one in my kitchen.

I adore everything about this machine.

The classic 70s Italian design... the orange and brown color scheme... the skateboard wheels...

It's one of the greatest espresso machines (the La Marzocco GS), and thanks to Terry and his Merry (mad)Men - this one is comparable to the most modern machines now.

Check out the gorgeous portafilter handle.

drool...

It's a total stunner - and it's actually (reasonably) practical for the home.

I said it had been modernized, right?

Clean and pro...

I've said it before and I'll say it again... Espressoparts does fucking AMAZING work.

The electrician arrives on Saturday.

I cannot WAIT for Sunday morning.

Coffee Common

This is a hugely important step for the coffee industry and I am so incredibly happy about it happening.

What am I talking about?

Go check out Coffee Common.

Stumptown. Intelligentsia. Square Mile. Counter Culture. George Howell. And on. And on. I mean... just look at that list!

I've long decried the lack of collaboration in the industry. I've pointed out time and time again that a rising sea raises ALL boats. I've tried to explain that a common voice about coffee issues and consumer education would leave the coffee companies that are trying to do the right thing less vulnerable to the misinformation spread by the other (cynical and unethical) coffee companies.

And for the longest time none of the leading companies were willing to even consider the idea. They saw this as a competitive issue.

But now... it's happening.

And I am so incredibly happy about this.

Brent... Tim... Sean... Stephen and Brian. Thank you!

Duane, Doug, James, George, Peter and all the other leaders within the various coffee companies involved. Thank you!

Coffee consumers. Coffee professionals.

Get involved with this. Read it. Explore it.

And celebrate it.

This could be the start of something special.

Bye-bye Anfim

So, the demo Anfim is boxed up and about to be shipped away.

And this morning was my first morning with the Robur back on the counter.

As a result, this gives me a chance to revisit my Anfim vs Robur at home thoughts.

To sum it up simply... if I had to recommend one of the two to a home barista I would absolutely recommend the Anfim. It's simply easier to work with and wastes far less coffee than the Robur. In fact, the only real negative of the Anfim for the home (as compared to the Robur) is that there are some coffees that I was never able to get optimal shots with. The stepped grinder adjustment meant that there were three times where the ideal extraction fell between steps.

Of course... both of these grinders are obscene overkill for the home. But if you're the kind of person who thinks too much is just the right amount - then I'd seriously suggest the new Anfim over the Robur.