I've said it before - the best thing about coffee is the wonderful people in the industry.
Had a fantastic experience on Sunday.
Tasted espresso and cupped coffees from a whole range of folks - with good friends Andrew, Drew and Gabe.
The coffees were amazing (you can read Gabe's account above for more information) but it really was the company and the experience that made is so special.
The experience also allowed me to crystalize something I've been trying to clearly explain for awhile. I have this belief that there are coffee roasters/buyers who are producing coffees that are more than just a "signature flavour" but are in fact a true representation of their own vision and identity and even personality. Duane from Stumptown is one such person. And Andrew Barnett from Ecco is another.
Tasting the Experimental Espresso #3 that Andrew was so kind to share made me realize that it was a near perfect expression of who he is - his values, his taste, his goals and beliefs.
That's such a cool thing.
And in general Andrew really is on top of his game right now. I tasted a gorgeous Yirgacheffe he shared with me this morning. It was roasted for espresso and was fucking godlike. Not just in the flavour and the mouthfeel and the aromatics (though damn was it good on all those). It was also one of those rare coffees that tasted fantastic at 201F, and equally fantastic (but entirely different) at 200F, and still just as fantastic (and different again) at 199F. Stunning.
6.11.2008
5.21.2008
Ecco Coromandel
Brazil - Cerrado Minas Gerais
Fazenda Sao Joao, Geginaldo Silvoni
Heirloom Bourbon
2007 Harvest
Another lovely brazil single origin espresso from Andrew Barnett at Ecco Caffe.
First impressions were of smoothness and polish. This is a highly "finished" espresso.
Initial tastes are of caramel, cashew butter and an interesting cherry/tangelo flavour.
It's quite subtle and very, very balanced. It's not a big espresso by any means.
As it cools, the fruits become more dominant - but without becoming sour or overly acidic. A lovely light molasses note appears as well.
In short milk drinks, the coffee comes across well - with the fats in the milk complementing the buttery nut notes and balancing the fruits.
It is, of course, rather lost in tall milk drinks.
Best use, without a doubt, is as a straight shot.
I found it responded well to a very slight updose in a double basket - with a midpoint brew temp and a slightly short shot volume. It also tasted quite good downdosed in a synesso triple basket and pulled ristretto.
Probably not everyone's cup of tea. There are those who will find it "boring" or not quite "intense" enough. For me... it's a lovely "everyday" espresso.
Fazenda Sao Joao, Geginaldo Silvoni
Heirloom Bourbon
2007 Harvest
Another lovely brazil single origin espresso from Andrew Barnett at Ecco Caffe.
First impressions were of smoothness and polish. This is a highly "finished" espresso.
Initial tastes are of caramel, cashew butter and an interesting cherry/tangelo flavour.
It's quite subtle and very, very balanced. It's not a big espresso by any means.
As it cools, the fruits become more dominant - but without becoming sour or overly acidic. A lovely light molasses note appears as well.
In short milk drinks, the coffee comes across well - with the fats in the milk complementing the buttery nut notes and balancing the fruits.
It is, of course, rather lost in tall milk drinks.
Best use, without a doubt, is as a straight shot.
I found it responded well to a very slight updose in a double basket - with a midpoint brew temp and a slightly short shot volume. It also tasted quite good downdosed in a synesso triple basket and pulled ristretto.
Probably not everyone's cup of tea. There are those who will find it "boring" or not quite "intense" enough. For me... it's a lovely "everyday" espresso.
5.19.2008
Ecco Caffe ("Taste of the Harvest")
Brazil Fazenda Cahoeira de Gramma from the Carvalho Diases.
Heirloom Yellow Bourbon, natural, raised screen bed.
2007 Harvest.
Another winner from Andrew Barnett at Ecco Caffe.
A simply lovely coffee, in all ways.
As espresso it's clean, sweet, elegant and polished. Extremely light on the palate with a wonderful soft and almost "fluffy" mouthfeel. Honey, some caramelized nectarine, a light filbert note. Wonderful tropical spice and floral aromas.
This is not an espresso for people who like "strong" coffee - but rather for those who appreciate flavour and balance. It's not idiosyncratic or "different."
It's just "right."
Be careful about pulling this coffee too hot. It takes a lower brew temp than you might expect. At even a single degree too high you'll lose the fruit and the floral notes and instead will end up with a coffee that is flat with noticeable "toast" flavours. Be brave... go cold.
Seems to respond best to mid-point doses (not too up... not too down).
It's very good in short milk drinks as well - but gets lost in tall ones.
Best, IMHO, as a straight shot where it really shines.
Nice one!!
Heirloom Yellow Bourbon, natural, raised screen bed.
2007 Harvest.
Another winner from Andrew Barnett at Ecco Caffe.
A simply lovely coffee, in all ways.
As espresso it's clean, sweet, elegant and polished. Extremely light on the palate with a wonderful soft and almost "fluffy" mouthfeel. Honey, some caramelized nectarine, a light filbert note. Wonderful tropical spice and floral aromas.
This is not an espresso for people who like "strong" coffee - but rather for those who appreciate flavour and balance. It's not idiosyncratic or "different."
It's just "right."
Be careful about pulling this coffee too hot. It takes a lower brew temp than you might expect. At even a single degree too high you'll lose the fruit and the floral notes and instead will end up with a coffee that is flat with noticeable "toast" flavours. Be brave... go cold.
Seems to respond best to mid-point doses (not too up... not too down).
It's very good in short milk drinks as well - but gets lost in tall ones.
Best, IMHO, as a straight shot where it really shines.
Nice one!!
5.15.2008
Sweet Tooth
Ritual's new espresso (Sweet Tooth) has settled in.
I've run through a couple pounds of it now.
Overall thoughts...
1 - This is a true "signature espresso" in the sense that it is a unique and personal espresso the represents the values, taste and goals of Ritual. That's something special - and something all coffee roasters should shoot for.
2 - It's not an espresso everyone is going to love.
3 - It's reasonably easy to work with - though I think home baristas with non-stabilized HX machines might struggle.
It's a very (very) well named coffee. First sips are dominated by intense sweetness (cane sugar, light, processed molasses, honey, touches of caramel) and floral notes (jasmine, rose). As the coffee cools it becomes quite tart and bright, with strong flavours of pomelo, green grape and persimmon. The sweetness continues, but the cup becomes dominated by the acidic fruit. In the end of the cup a nice pomegranate note emerges (though I do get some hints of astringency as well).
It does seem a little hollow however. It hits the center of the palate almost exclusively and there is a "hole" in the middle of the profile.
This hollowness become more noticeable when combined with milk - where the lack of the deeper darker tones results in "simplistic" profiles.
I found it best quite significantly updosed - and at a higher brew temp than I'd expected. Shot volume was good - and the shots look gorgeous in the cup.
Because of the tartness - I think home machines that have a declining brew temp could prove challenging. Shots could come out as noticeably sour in some cases. I'd suggest pulling shots quite short in this case.
Overall... a good espresso and a big step forward for Ritual.
I've run through a couple pounds of it now.
Overall thoughts...
1 - This is a true "signature espresso" in the sense that it is a unique and personal espresso the represents the values, taste and goals of Ritual. That's something special - and something all coffee roasters should shoot for.
2 - It's not an espresso everyone is going to love.
3 - It's reasonably easy to work with - though I think home baristas with non-stabilized HX machines might struggle.
It's a very (very) well named coffee. First sips are dominated by intense sweetness (cane sugar, light, processed molasses, honey, touches of caramel) and floral notes (jasmine, rose). As the coffee cools it becomes quite tart and bright, with strong flavours of pomelo, green grape and persimmon. The sweetness continues, but the cup becomes dominated by the acidic fruit. In the end of the cup a nice pomegranate note emerges (though I do get some hints of astringency as well).
It does seem a little hollow however. It hits the center of the palate almost exclusively and there is a "hole" in the middle of the profile.
This hollowness become more noticeable when combined with milk - where the lack of the deeper darker tones results in "simplistic" profiles.
I found it best quite significantly updosed - and at a higher brew temp than I'd expected. Shot volume was good - and the shots look gorgeous in the cup.
Because of the tartness - I think home machines that have a declining brew temp could prove challenging. Shots could come out as noticeably sour in some cases. I'd suggest pulling shots quite short in this case.
Overall... a good espresso and a big step forward for Ritual.
5.13.2008
New Harvest Competition Blend
I received a pound of the New Harvest Coffee Roaster's Competition Blend last week. Oddly enough, my cousin works there - and thought to send me some of the coffee. They're a little coffee roaster in Rhode Island.
I'm assuming that this is a sort of "one-off" espresso as it's not on their site.
Working with, and drinking, this espresso was a really interesting experience for me.
I've been spending a lot of time recently drinking coffees that strive for the sort of balance, finesse and sweet acidity that seems to be the emerging standard among a certain group of roasters. From the Hairbender through the various Ecco Caffe espressos to the Ritual Sweet Tooth to the random other coffees - there is a common thread here.
In addition, I've been drinking more and more espressos that, if not actually single origin, are at least made of very few beans.
As a result, I'd lost sight of the fact that there are other styles and approaches to espresso.
This Competition Blend is a representative of another type.
Instead of going for balance and finesse - it goes for flavour and "big-ness." It's definitely a "more is more" approach. It's all over the place - with bright berry notes and dried fruit; with bakers' chocolate and leather; toast and tobacco. If it were a beer it would be one of those Stone experimental Imperial Ales.
In milk, this approach worked out very well - with drinks that were dominated by the toast and chocolate notes and a nice sweet fruit note riding along the top. Even tall milk drinks still tasted of coffee. Nice.
As a straight shot, however, this was a bit of a palate hammer. The shear profusion of flavours was a bit much for me. Beyond that, however, hidden beneath all these flavours were some not so nice notes. There was an ashy and acrid note that lurked beneath the tobacco flavours - and a hint of mushroom emerged now and then.
That being said - honestly, this was a totally serviceable espresso in many ways. I drank it happily in short milk drinks. And saying "it's no Hairbender as a straight shot" is kind of unfair.
It was very easy to work with - and really tolerant of changes to extraction parameters.
It looked absolutely gorgeous in the cup.
More than that - it was really cool to be reminded that there are a lot of ways to skin this particular cat; that there are a ton of different ideas of what espresso is and should be.
And at the end of the day - it's all what you like.
I'm assuming that this is a sort of "one-off" espresso as it's not on their site.
Working with, and drinking, this espresso was a really interesting experience for me.
I've been spending a lot of time recently drinking coffees that strive for the sort of balance, finesse and sweet acidity that seems to be the emerging standard among a certain group of roasters. From the Hairbender through the various Ecco Caffe espressos to the Ritual Sweet Tooth to the random other coffees - there is a common thread here.
In addition, I've been drinking more and more espressos that, if not actually single origin, are at least made of very few beans.
As a result, I'd lost sight of the fact that there are other styles and approaches to espresso.
This Competition Blend is a representative of another type.
Instead of going for balance and finesse - it goes for flavour and "big-ness." It's definitely a "more is more" approach. It's all over the place - with bright berry notes and dried fruit; with bakers' chocolate and leather; toast and tobacco. If it were a beer it would be one of those Stone experimental Imperial Ales.
In milk, this approach worked out very well - with drinks that were dominated by the toast and chocolate notes and a nice sweet fruit note riding along the top. Even tall milk drinks still tasted of coffee. Nice.
As a straight shot, however, this was a bit of a palate hammer. The shear profusion of flavours was a bit much for me. Beyond that, however, hidden beneath all these flavours were some not so nice notes. There was an ashy and acrid note that lurked beneath the tobacco flavours - and a hint of mushroom emerged now and then.
That being said - honestly, this was a totally serviceable espresso in many ways. I drank it happily in short milk drinks. And saying "it's no Hairbender as a straight shot" is kind of unfair.
It was very easy to work with - and really tolerant of changes to extraction parameters.
It looked absolutely gorgeous in the cup.
More than that - it was really cool to be reminded that there are a lot of ways to skin this particular cat; that there are a ton of different ideas of what espresso is and should be.
And at the end of the day - it's all what you like.
5.06.2008
Tasting... coffee...
I've been remiss.
I've failed to paste tasting notes for, oh... let's just say a long (long) time.
I'm going to try and start being more responsible about this.
To make me more conscientious about it... I've decided that from now on whenever folks send me coffee samples (solicited or unsolicited) I'm going to post tasting notes.
So if you send me coffee - you'll get notes. And so will the rest of the world.
-c
PS. Congrats to Kyle Glanville. Nice work. And a big shout out to my boys Chris and Drew. Way to represent SF.
I've failed to paste tasting notes for, oh... let's just say a long (long) time.
I'm going to try and start being more responsible about this.
To make me more conscientious about it... I've decided that from now on whenever folks send me coffee samples (solicited or unsolicited) I'm going to post tasting notes.
So if you send me coffee - you'll get notes. And so will the rest of the world.
-c
PS. Congrats to Kyle Glanville. Nice work. And a big shout out to my boys Chris and Drew. Way to represent SF.
3.21.2008
4 barrel
9-5
in the Caledonia Alley (parallel to and between Valencia and Mission, between 14th and 15th).
hell yeah.
in the Caledonia Alley (parallel to and between Valencia and Mission, between 14th and 15th).
hell yeah.
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